Strike One, Strike Two

Here we are on tube strike #2. The London commuter world has become a war zone for the next 48 hours. Queues (or as you know them, lines) thrown out the window; every man and woman for themselves; elbows and running, pushing and shoving become a necessity.

For reference, our house is A and my work is B on the map above. Normally, I take a bus to the tube, then transfer where you see the gray Jubilee mark (this is also the stop that Aaron gets off at for work). I continue on a different line until Canary Wharf. I am basically going across the central part of London and actually pass under the river twice. It takes me about an hour, door to door.

So after my first strike experience last time, this second round I was a little more prepared for the madness. I bought a roundtrip ticket ahead of time for the Thames Clipper and caught the boat near our house. I traveled all the way through central London on the river, and it dropped me off just in front of my work.

It still took me 2.5 hours this morning and 1.75 this evening, but it was easy, scenic and couldn't be overcrowded. It was definitely better than stressing and sweating out the other modes of transport. Plus, did I mention the boats have a bar? : )

Yes, during a tube strike, I will take the boat over this any day:

A Little Ritzy

The Ritz Hotel in London is a posh landmark set among the hustle and bustle of the city. To one side is Picadilly Circus with it's traffic, billboards and shops; to the other side is beautiful Green Park which leads the way to Buckingham Palace. Quite a few notable people have stayed and met at the hotel including Charlie Chaplin, and Churchill, de Gaulle and Eisenhower during World War II.

Last week we had dinner with my Uncle, and the outing included a post-dinner drink at the Ritz. My cocktail presentation was incredibly unique - a Ramos Gin Fizz served in a golden goose egg perched within an edible caramel nest. Very delicious but even more visually distinctive. It was quite the nightcap:

Photo from www.theritzlondon.com - Ritz Hotel

Next time, we will have to try El Presidente. A mix of Bacardi 150th Anniversary Rum, 1950s Martini & Rossi Red Vermouth, and 1960s Grand Marnier Liquor only for 350 pounds. Maybe one day... but only if it's served on the rocks with ice cold gold cubes : )

When in Rome...

This seemed to be the theme of our weekend as we tried to take advantage of everything the city had to offer. We absolutely loved Rome. Here's why:

Trevi Fountain on our first night

Pasta, Pizza, Gelato, Wine oh my!
The food and wine was incredible. Our favorite meal was at a restaurant that I had read about in Time Out - celebrities dine there a lot so we thought we might see someone famous. We didn't end up seeing anyone, but the food, service and atmosphere was "magnifico"

Tour of Colosseum and Roman Forum
This was the number one thing Aaron wanted to see when we moved to Europe. We toured through it and the Roman Forum. Surprisingly, it is still in pretty good shape for being 1940 years old. Aaron loved it, but now he's determined to re-watch Gladiator.

Empty chairs the day before Easter Mass at the Vatican

Easter Mass at the Vatican
About two months ago, we faxed in a letter to the Vatican requesting tickets to Easter Mass. We received a letter saying that we had tickets and to go to a bronze door near St Peter's Square the day before to pick them up. Tickets were free, but the whole experience seemed a bit secretive and exclusive. We picked up the tickets, and the following day, we headed to to the Vatican to find that the whole experience wasn't so exclusive. We packed in with 98,000 other people and watched the Pope deliver Easter Mass. As the precession started up, one of the two guys in front of us said "Sounds like, go Huskies" and I couldn't help but ask, "Which Huskies are you referring to?" : ) Sure enough, they were from Seattle which made the entire experience even better. We were surprised to find out that the mass was delivered in multiple languages and that the entire crowd took communion.

Piazza Navona

Pantheon ceiling

History / Piazzas
We loved all the history that was lining the streets of Rome. From the piazzas to historical remnants of Roman times that you could stumble upon in. Piazza Navona was my favorite- it used to be an old stadium in 1st century AD. But we also loved the Pantheon, Campo De' Fiori and Trevi Fountain. Rome is just so beautiful.

Weather
Saturday night, we had a torrentual downpour at the amazing restaurant, which included thunder and lightning. We were outside under a covered terrace and just listened to the rain pour down on the awning. It was one of the worst "storms" I've ever heard, but such a unique and cool experience. After dinner, we even grabbed a bottle of wine and headed up to our hotel's rooftop patio to listen to the storm (which luckily also had an awning). The following day was gorgeous and the day after that we even got a little sunburnt. The weather was a perfect mix of a little bit of everything.

Water Fountains
The city has over 2,000 water fountains that provide clean, cold drinking water on the streets. We took advantage of these. I can only imagine how crowded they get during the hot summer months (especially if we got sun burnt in April)!

Parade Route

Rome's Birthday
Rome is one of the only city's to celebrate it's birthday, and luckily that date happened to fall while we were in town. On April 21, Rome celebrated it's 2767 birthday with a huge parade, gladiator re-enactments and fireworks. We got caught directly in the parade route and found a perfect lookout to see the excitement below.

After finally escaping the crowd, one last photo!

Getting "Trapped"
This may sound weird, but multiple times during the weekend, Aaron and I found ourselves trapped in a place we couldn't get out of. The first time this happened was during Easter mass. We were in the center crowd and they had formed walkways through for the Pope to drive around in his Pope car and communion to be given. We decided to head out a bit early, but we couldn't get out! There was nowhere to go and just tons of people. Finally, we told an Italian guard, we just want to get out and he ushered us onto the walkway where hundreds of people were lined up clapping - quite the escape! The second time we were trapped was during Rome's birthday parade. The same sort of thing happened and we had to run across the parade route.

We both agree that Rome has been our favorite city we've visited so far. But we're learning that it's really not about where you go, but your experiences in those destinations that make a trip. And everything we did and saw, the people that we met, the delicious Italian meals we ate, and the unique experiences that we had, are really what made our trip. Ciao Roma!

An Eerie Tour Ripped from History

Our Ride

Jack the Ripper. Have you heard of him? You may think you know the story but nobody really does.

Aaron and I went on a "Jack the Ripper and the Hauntings of London" tour last night and discovered a dark past to London's rich history. We drove through the city on an open top bus just as the sun was setting. Our first stop was Smithfield, a public execution site in the 13-1500s. There's a memorial there for William Wallace (Braveheart), where the leader in the Scottish Wars for Independence was hung, drawn and quartered when he was captured.

Sir William Wallace Memorial

We continued East along the river and stopped when we arrived at the Whitechapel district of London. This is where we got off and continued on foot just as the night was settling in.

It was here that in 1888 five brutal murders were carried out over the course of two and half months. Each separate crime had similarities, and so it was likely a serial killer was on the loose. Terror spread like wild fire through the streets of London, and still to this day the haunting eeriness lives on.

The story of Jack the Ripper is still popular to this day for a few reasons. First, the killer's identity is still unknown. There have been multiple suspects but none ever had enough evidence to have charges brought against them.

Secondly, it was one of the first serial killer stories to be consumed in a media frenzy. There were letters from those claiming to be the murderer and a kidney supposedly from a victim was sent to a high ranking official all feeding the flame.

Whitechapel church sets a haunting scene

Lastly, the crimes were brutal and bold. The ripper murdered and cut open his victims on public streets- only one murder happened behind a closed door. He was calculated and precise with his mutilations even taking parts of victims with him. In one instance, there is an account of a police officer walking by an area, and then 20 minutes later discovering a body.

How did such brutal killings happen virtually unseen? And how was no one ever caught? This is the mystery and fascination that lies behind Jack the Ripper. Ironically, he is famous for being unknown.

And this is why even after all these years, "Ripperologists" take groups of people on nightly tours to walk the streets that Jack the Ripper walked and learn about the haunting, obscure past that he left on London's streets 126 years ago.

Recipe for Newlyweds Abroad Success

Roughly one year ago, Aaron got the job offer from Russell to move to London with his wife-to-be in one week (me!). And six months ago, we actually did it; we picked up our life in Seattle and moved what we could of it across the very, very large pond.

This Sunday marks six months in London, and it has not been without it's ups and downs - below I've put together everything that has made up this experience. And to celebrate our first six months abroad, we are heading to Rome!

Newlyweds Abroad Recipe
Makes about 6 months worth

Ingredients:
- Heaping of unbelievable adventures (recommend using airline miles)
- Scoop of life-lessons
- Sprinkling of mistakes
- Handful of laughter (generous portion)
- Dash of homesickness
- Top with a British accent*

Mix ingredients evenly in a large bowl. Bake at 350 degrees F, 180 degrees C or Gas Mark 4... which reminds me... forgot to add a cup of International frustrations and knowledge. Cook until well done. Repeat as necessary.

*Just kidding about the British accent. Unfortunately, we do not have one... yet!

Not My Week

The past week has been a little rough for me to say the least.

Last week Aaron and I went running outside. It was a bit dark, and I tripped and skinned my knee.

Yesterday we went for a bike ride. The pavement was uneven and as I tried to move back up to the sidewalk (and out of the scary road with red buses driving by us) my tire got caught. I ended up falling and skinning my palm, elbow and toenail.

Today I woke up with an incredibly bad cold.

Let's just say the past week has not been my week. I feel like a toddler - who skins their knee and falls off their bike in the same week that isn't two years old? I'm sure the incidents looked pretty funny, but it's not quite funny yet while my wounds are still healing.

All this led to my first doctor's visit in the UK and my first experience with the UK National Healthcare Service (NHS). It was very different than in the US:

• When I made the appointment, they asked if I could just talk on the phone to a doctor instead of having to be seen
• I went to "check in" and they told me to just wait in the waiting room. I also did not have to check out at all and didn't pay any sort of a copay
• I waited for about 25 minutes past my appointment time and then only spent 5 minutes with the doctor
• The doctor did not take my temperature, blood pressure, anything. She was more concerned with my hand and elbow than my sickness

An interesting experience and just one of the many differences we've found between the UK and US. Looks like I will be exercising indoors for a while...

Conquering the Tower of London

Our quest to visit the touristy sites of London continued this weekend with a visit to the Tower of London. Also known as "Her Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress," the Tower of London was built in 1066 and sits on the bank of the Thames River in central London.

It has been used as a royal residence, prison, the home of the Royal Mint, a public records office, and safekeeping for the Crown Jewels. Today, it still houses the Crown Jewels and is a tourist site that provides a look back in history.

The castle is huge, and has so many different areas to it. A glimpse into just a few of the areas and stories:

The Moat - Now the moat is covered in grass, but we watched a short outside performance of Geoffrey Chaucer's The Canterbury Tales.

Waterloo Baracks - A huge safe where the Crown Jewels are kept! You are able to go inside and see them on a moving walk way platform, but no pictures are allowed and there is tight security.

The Royal Menagerie - The tower was once home to animals that had been given as gifts from different countries to the royal family. Believe it or not, it was home to a polar bear that went fishing in the Thames River, an elephant, lions, leopards, monkeys, an ostrich and a grizzly bear.

The White Tower - Inside was a chapel, royal armouries collection and line of kings exhibit and brief history of the fortress.

Torture at the Tower - An upclose look at some replicas of torture devices that England used to use. There are also prisoner stories and graffiti leftover from some of the inmates that were kept in the towers.

The Bloody Tower - This story got to me. In 1483 two princes, ages 9 and 12, disappeared after their father, The King, died and their uncle declared his nephews illegitimate. Their uncle was crowned and the princes were never seen alive again. In 1674 two children's bodies were discovered underneath a staircase leading to the white tower. It is believed that these were the two princes.

Ravens at the Tower - There is an old legend that says the kingdom and the tower will fall if the six resident Ravens ever leave the fortress. There are seven ravens that currently wander freely about the castle. Their wings are clipped so they can't fly away.

After 3 hours we thought we had finally seen everything there was to see at the Tower of London...

... or at least most of it. But after 3 hours of walking around, it was definitely time to head home!

London, A Country in Itself

It’s funny because most of the time living here, I don’t feel like I’m in Britain. London is so different from anywhere I've ever been in the world, and it’s so hard to describe it.

Looks-wise, the city is a mix of the old and the new – low ceiling, historical, old buildings with tall, modern skyscrapers in some parts – and beautiful, massive gardens spotted throughout. People-wise, it is a global melting pot with everyone looking so different and languages spoken from every country. Neighborhood-wise, the city is huge so you get it all from posh to hippie to artsy and everything in between.

In a way, London is almost a country in itself. And I have decided that it is my favorite place that I’ve ever been because there really is nowhere else in the world like it. Where else can you go one night to a Turkish restaurant, dance, and hear a singer perform Frank Sinatra and Motown classics, and the next to an Italian restaurant while your waiters perform opera around you.

 

You could spend three years here and not see it all. We are trying to do it all in our 3 years, but each time we do something, we learn about another intriguing, fun experience.

This quote by Samuel Johnson sums it up pretty well: "When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life. For there is in London all that life can afford."

To be totally cheesy, I love Seattle but have also realized that I really fancy this amazing city.

You've Got Mail

There's something to be said about a card or a hand written letter these days. In the busy world of technology, it's hard to find the time or will power to tear yourself away from your iphone and actually sit down and write a letter.

But it's also so exciting to receive mail that's not a bill or piece of junk. And coming from someone who is 4,781 miles away from home, it means a whole lot more to see a note handwritten and know the trouble the sender went through to mail it internationally : )

During Christmas, we were so excited be the amount of cards we received from friends and family far away. My mom mails our mail to us (funny in itself). Gail sends me pictures of Aaron from when he was younger (ah, "blackmail"!) We had one friend send us their wedding invitation with an RSVP card that had 7 stamps on it, but when we went to mail it, the UK Royal Mail wouldn't accept the US stamps (mail fail).

I can't name every letter or card we've received, but they definitely have not gone unnoticed - we have truly loved every single one. Basically good old fashioned mail is staying alive because of us ; )

So for my next blog post, I will be handwriting it and mailing it out to anyone who would like a copy. If you'd like to be one of my "snail mail followers" and receive it by mail, please fax me your name and mailing address, along with a copy of your Happy April Fool's Day!