This weekend, we rented a car and drove to the Southwest English
countryside, also known as the counties of Devon and Cornwall. Driving
on the right side of the road, we covered 593 miles over 3 days and
stopped at these places along the way:
Day 1, Friday
A - Rental Car Pick Up
Upgraded to a Mercedes, swanky! Then we are on the road... the right hand side that is!
B - Dunster Castle
We stumbled upon a castle built in the 11th century while driving and decided to stop in and tour it. Up until 1976, it was still privately owned and a home residence! Interesting fact we learned from a museum volunteer, they used to mix plaster with beer to make it more pliable which is where the alcohol term "plastered" comes from. Who knew we'd learn that at a British castle?! After touring, we ate lunch in the small village next to it before continuing on.
C - Atlantic Coast Highway
I had read that this was one of the "best drives" in Europe. The roads that wind through small villages can at times be pretty narrow! But it was gorgeous with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and your quintessential British scenery on the other. At one point, we were driving down a steep cliff and there were sheep sleeping on the side of the road. Seems like a baaad place to take a nap...
D - Clovelly
This is where we stayed for the night. Clovelly is a small harbor village built on an extremely steep slope. The main street is all cobblestone - no cars are allowed so we had to walk down with our bags - and it descends 400 feet. Walking back up in the morning was challenging - my calves were sore! It is privately owned which is unusual and is known for it's waterfall, fishing and donkeys that used to carry goods up and down the main street.
Day 2, Saturday
E - Tintagel Castle
After our hike back up to the car, we headed to Tintagel Castle, where King Arthur was supposedly born. The island that the castle is on is incredibly scenic itself. We hiked down a huge hill across a bridge and up many stairs to reach the remains. The castle was much less intact than Dunster. The island provided for gorgeous views of the raging Atlantic water below and eerie wall structure remains of the castle.
F - Padstow
We had gotten quite a few recommendations from friends that we had to visit Padstow, a harbor village near Tintagel. We stopped for lunch and tried Cornish Pasties (meat stuffed in a pastry crust) and Cornish fudge (made with clotted cream). Just as we were finishing our lunch, a hail storm rolled through and we had to run for the car!
G - Plymouth
We tried to go to the Plymouth Gin Distillery for a tasting but the tours were all full, so we ended up just driving around and exploring. This was much more of a city than any place that we had been, and it's actually where the pilgrams left from when they founded America.
H - Ermington
I had picked a luxury bed and breakfast for our final stay. It was in a very small town called Ermington which was founded just after 700. The town location was chosen because of a natural spring which was seen as holy water for a church. Now the town is known for the church's crooked spire, so we walked to see it and through the eerie graveyard surrounding it just as the sun was setting. We had a really great dinner at the bed and breakfast and enjoyed hanging out in the family-room style bar playing cribbage, dominos and golf (typical Whamley night).
Day 3, Sunday
I - Cheddar Gorge
After an early start, we headed back north to Cheddar Gorge, a limestone gorge where Britain's oldest complete human skeleton, estimated to be over 9,000 years old, was found in 1903. They have two parts to the gorge: a "show cave" self guided walk through portion and the adventure caving experience where you climb and squeeze your way through the darkness, boulders and mud. Of course, we did this : ) It was such a cool adventure, and was actually really difficult at some points! Since we did it so early, we were the only ones on the cave diving trip which made it even better.
J - Clifton Suspension Bridge
Once we cleaned up and had wiped off most of the mud, we drove across the Clifton Suspension Bridge, which opened in 1864. We had lunch in Clifton before heading back on much larger highways towards London.
K - Rental Car Drop Off
We said goodbye to our Mercedes and the small, fast, windy roads, and headed home. The end of a fantastic road trip with a lot of Britain covered in just 3 days!